Where to Stay in Madrid – Neighborhoods & Area Guide
Leyre, co-owner of El Gallinero the hen house , says that a new generation of gays has grown tired of Chueca, the city's gay district, host to one of Europe's largest annual gay pride festivals. It is also too crowded; it's as though they were celebrating gay pride week every night of the year, and it's tiring.
We want a neighborhood where we are just like everybody else, and not the center of attention. Also, Chueca is overwhelmingly about gay men; lesbians want somewhere that they can hang out. Mauricio Main, the bar's owner, says the first thing he did when he opened was to replace the green awning over the front of the establishment with a rainbow-colored canopy.
Panchi, who works in La Antigua Taquería, a former tavern now converted into a Mexican restaurant run by two lesbians, describes Chueca as "plastic," while Lavapiés is "authentic," smelling of cocido , the capital's traditional stew. The menu is hand-painted on a vast mirror propped up by the bar.
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Next to it a pair of shelves are stacked with dozens of alcoholic drinks and liquors used to prepare cocktails, overseen by a statue of San Pancracio, the patron saint of children. La Antigua Taquería attracts a varied crowd over the course of the day: a group of Pakistani men are enjoying a morning coffee at a corner table, while an elderly man who has lived in the neighborhood all his life has come in for a beer, served with a tapa of a few olives; students and twentysomethings, attracted by the low prices, drop by in the evenings for supper; and of course gays and lesbians looking to meet somebody new In reality, there has always been a gay presence in Lavapiés, says Gabriel Abraham, who owns the only gay sauna in the neighborhood.
It's still early, but he says that later on the dark rooms out back will fill up with men looking for an anonymous sexual encounter.
He says that when Chueca started to become fashionable, around 20 years ago, Lavapiés increasingly became associated with the capital's fast-growing immigrant community, attracting Chinese rag-trade wholesalers, Africans, Moroccans and Bangladeshis, who opened dozens of stores and restaurants. In he opened a sauna, which for a modest 10 euros offers gay men up to eight hours of steamy fun.
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The opening in of the Eskalera Karakola spiral staircase , a collective run by women, attracted many lesbians to the area. In those days, one of the few exclusively lesbian clubs in the capital was in Lavapiés: Medea. Currently 3.
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